The Case for Small Fish: Sardines, Anchovies, Herring & More

The Case for Small Fish: Sardines, Anchovies, Herring & More

Sardines, anchovies, brisling, sprats, herring, and smaller mackerel occupy an important part of the food chain. They feed larger fish, seabirds, and marine mammals, and they have fed us and our ancestors for a very long time too. They're also some of the fish that make the most sense in a tin.

That doesn't mean small fish are automatically sustainable, automatically cheap, or somehow exempt from the same problems that affect every other fishery. A badly managed sardine fishery is still a badly managed fishery.

What small fish offer is a combination that is hard to ignore: strong flavor, good nutrition, efficient preservation, relatively fast growth, and a natural fit with pantry cooking.

Small Fish Sit in an Important Part of the Food Chain

Sardines, anchovies, herring, sprats, and similar species are often called small pelagics. They live in the open water, usually in large schools, and they are a major food source for larger predators. Tuna eat them. Larger fish eat them. Seabirds eat them. Marine mammals eat them. And we eat them.

That's part of why these fisheries matter so much. Taking small fish out of the ocean isn't the same as removing an isolated species from the system. These fish are moving energy from plankton and other small food sources up through the food chain.

That doesn't mean they should not be caught. It means the fishery has to leave enough behind.

They Can Be Incredibly Productive

Small pelagic fish tend to grow quickly, mature relatively early, and gather in large schools. When environmental conditions line up, they can support highly productive fisheries.

A few strong recruitment years can put a lot of fish into the system. A run of weak years can change the picture quickly. Water temperature, currents, food availability, spawning success, predation, and fishing pressure all affect what happens next.

That is why “there are millions of them” isn't a solid management strategy.

They Make Sense in a Tin

Small oily fish are almost built for preservation.

Sardines, sprats, brisling, herring, anchovies, and mackerel have enough fat and flavor to handle heat, smoke, salt, vinegar, tomato, spices, and oil without disappearing. Their size means they can often be packed whole, with skin and bones intact.

A sardine can go into a tin with olive oil and salt and still taste like sardine. Brisling takes smoke well. Anchovies take salt. Herring can handle vinegar. Mackerel can stand up to almost anything you throw at it.z

That flexibility is one reason these fish show up again and again in preservation cultures.

Eating the Whole Fish Changes the Equation

With small fish, you often get the whole thing. The skin stays on, the bones soften during canning, and very little gets trimmed away.

That means small fish can bring calcium, protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and other nutrients without much trimming or waste. The bones soften during canning and become part of the food rather than something that has to be removed.

There is no need to turn that into a supplement pitch. It is just a practical advantage. You are eating more of the fish. Read more about the health benefits of tinned fish here.

Small Fish and Mercury

Mercury accumulates through the food chain. Large predatory fish that live longer generally have more time to build it up.

Many small fish sit much lower in that chain. Sardines, anchovies, herring, Atlantic mackerel, and Pacific chub mackerel are all generally considered lower-mercury choices than large predatory species.

That doesn't mean every fish with “mackerel” in the name belongs in the same category. King mackerel is a completely different animal from Atlantic mackerel and carries a much higher mercury concern.

Species makes a difference and you can read more about mackerel in this Guide.

Cheap Fish and Good Fish Are Not Opposites

Small fish have historically been working class food. That is part of what makes them interesting to me.  I gravitate towards humble ingredients.

Sardines on bread. Anchovies in pasta. Herring with potatoes. Mackerel over rice. Sprats smoked and eaten cold. These aren't foods that need a tasting menu and a pair of tweezers to justify themselves.

They fed people.

Modern conservas has taken some of these fish into a much more premium world, and that isn't necessarily a bad thing. Better handling, better oil, careful packing, and skilled labor all cost money.

But the basic logic shouldn't get lost. Small fish are good pantry food because they can make a meal without asking much from you.

Bread, rice, potatoes, beans, eggs, something acidic. That's usually enough.

They Carry Flavor Well

There is another reason these fish have survived in traditional food cultures: they taste good.

Small oily fish have enough fat to carry smoke, salt, spice, vinegar, tomato, herbs, and olive oil without getting buried. That makes them flexible in the kitchen.

Anchovies can disappear into a sauce and leave the flavor behind. Sardines can sit on toast with almost nothing else. Mackerel works with rice, potatoes, eggs, and mustard. Herring can handle vinegar and onions. Brisling can take a good amount of smoke and still taste like fish underneath it.

These are not neutral proteins that just take on the flavor of what you add to them, and that's part of the appeal.

Small Fish Are Not Interchangeable

Sardines are often fuller-bodied and commonly eaten whole. Anchovies are smaller and strongly associated with curing and salting. Sprats and brisling are smaller again and especially good with smoke. Herring can be larger and behaves differently under pickling or smoking. Mackerel brings the fat and a meatier texture.

“Small fish” is a practical category, not a species. That's also why a pantry can hold several of them without feeling repetitive.

The Sustainability Story Is More Complicated

There is a tendency to treat “small fish” as shorthand for sustainable seafood.

That's way too simple.

A poorly managed sardine fishery can still be overfished. A herring stock can still decline. A fishery can have bycatch problems. Small pelagics can cross national boundaries, which means management often depends on several countries agreeing about catch limits and enforcement.

These fish also play an important ecological role as forage species, so removing too many can affect predators farther up the food chain.

Eating lower on the food chain can make sense. It's not a free pass.

This is a delicate system that requires a lot of questions to be asked. We wrote a bit about that here.

Small Fish Are Often More Efficient to Use

Large fish usually get broken down. Fillets come off. Trimmings go somewhere else. Heads, frames, skin, and bones may be used, discarded, or turned into another product.

With small fish, much more of the animal can go directly into the finished food.

That does not automatically make the fishery better. But from a culinary standpoint, there is something efficient about eating the whole thing instead of chasing only the most marketable muscle.

That is probably one reason small fish fit so naturally into older preservation traditions.

They are practical and fit well into the nose-to-tail ethos.

America Still Treats Small Fish Like Lesser Fish

A lot of American seafood culture still follows a simple hierarchy.

Big fish tend to carry more prestige, whether it’s a tuna steak, a salmon fillet, or a meaty slab of swordfish.

Small fish are still often treated as bait, pizza topping, emergency pantry food, or something somebody’s grandfather ate straight from the can.

That hierarchy never made much sense. Size doesn't tell you how good a fish is.

Sardines can be beautiful fish. Anchovies can completely change a dish. Mackerel has enough personality to carry dinner. Brisling takes smoke better than plenty of fish that cost several times as much. Herring has built entire food cultures.

The Pantry Is Probably Where They Make the Most Sense

Fresh small fish can be excellent, but they are perishable and difficult to distribute widely in good condition. The tin solves that.

It lets a seasonal, oily, delicate fish travel without ice, wait without a freezer, and sit in a cabinet until somebody needs lunch.

That is old technology doing exactly what it is supposed to do.

Open a tin of sardines and put them over rice. Eat mackerel with potatoes. Put anchovies into pasta. Have brisling on toast. Add lemon, mustard, pickles, or nothing at all.

Small fish don't need much help. They've been feeding people for a very long time without it.